Patwa

Patwa – turning threads and beads into fine jewellery 

While making gold, silver and diamond jewellery has always been considered an art, Patwa evolved as a thread work craft involving artful interplay between vibrant threads and beads to create fine imitation or fashion jewellery. Suitable for casual wear and formal occasions alike, Patwa jewellery offers something for everyone - from rustic necklaces, colourful earrings, minimalistic bangles to more sophisticated jewellery sets. Patwa payals and ghungroos are also very popular with customers. Characterised by the distinct knotting, braiding and weaving of the threads, Patwa product range has expanded to small curios, knick knacks, key holders, wall accents and tassels. Many of these articles make for great handmade gift ideas for Diwali, Dussera and even return gifts for birthdays and get togethers. The tribal craft which started in Rajasthan, later spread to Maharashtra, Uttar Pradesh (UP), Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Delhi.  

The history, mythological origins and evolution of Patwa Jewellery 

Patwa derives its name from the word ‘Pat’ which means silk. Subsequently, people engaged in silk and cotton thread businesses came to be known as Patwas. They would often move from village to village to sell their products and repair old jewellery. Going by Hindu mythology though, the craft’s genesis can be traced back to Lord Vishnu. It is believed that on one occasion, Lord Vishnu created a couple to perform certain priestly duties. Later, Vishnu guided the couple to earn their livelihood by selling jewellery made using silk threads and thus, the craft came into existence. 

Traditionally, Patwas worked mostly with gold and silver threads. Providing tassels and beaded strings for precious jewellery items, the craft started as an ancillary to the renowned Rajasthani jewellery industry. With time, colourful threads of different materials as well as beads made of glass, wood, metal came into the fold along with the use of semi-precious stones. Embellishments made of oxidised silver as well as brass with antique gold finish also feature prominently across offerings today. Using their creativity and skills, artisans started combining intricate thread work and knots with complementing beads to make eye-catching items. The list of articles not only includes traditional necklaces, anklets, bracelets but also rakhis, decorative tassels, wall hangings, latkans, parondi and torans among others. 

Patwa Jewellery - Making Process and tools used 

The process for crafting different Patwa products can vary, but the tools used are mostly the same viz., needles, cutters, comb, metal hooks and a traditional tool called charkhi. The ingenious tool, operated by hand, wraps thread around a central spine with great speed. Time and technique required for making a single piece largely depends on the product, its design and size. Within necklaces, earrings and tassels, there are simplistic ones that require sliding beads on threads and tying them at the end with a hook attached, to more elaborate ones with intricate thread work that need manoeuvring of yarns and beads. Apart from the extremely neat hand crafting skills required, a crucial one is that of creatively applying one’s mind to come up with articles that please the eye. Fortunately, these skills have been omnipresent among Patwas for generations.