Pochampally Ikat

Poetry of the loom – Ikat Handloom Saree 

If ever a handloom textile has been known to evoke awe and intrigue in equal measure, it has been ikat. The technique behind Ikat or ikkat sarees make it an interesting study in contradiction. On one hand it requires spot-on mathematical precision, particularly while dealing with warps and wefts. On the other, blurriness of the design isn’t to be mistaken for an error. It’s a hallmark of the handwoven drape and its authenticity. 

Ikat is derived from the Malay word mengikat, which roughly translates as ‘to tie’. It refers to the elaborate technique of ‘tying and dyeing’ yarns which precedes the weaving of an ikat fabric. Since the first step involves dyeing of the yarns in accordance with the envisaged design, weaving an ikat saree necessitates meticulous planning and the plan’s perfect execution with zero scope for error. In a double-ikat saree, where both the weft and warp yarns are dyed and subsequently interwoven to bring alive immaculate pattern work, the process becomes even more arduous. It’s no wonder then as to why ikat is often referred to as the ‘Poetry of the Loom’, albeit a complex one. 

The complexity and painstaking effort, however, are all part of its appeal – just ask the weavers who have devoted their all to keep this handloom craft alive. Interlacing intricate floral, geometric, curved scroll and paisley patterns in a handloom ikat fabric requires skills which take years to master. 

Pochampally ikat sarees from Telangana are renowned across the world for their scintillating pattern work, fine attention to detail and top-notch quality. It has even been granted a GI tag. Telia Rumal is another exquisite double ikat fabric synonymous with the region, which has historically enjoyed royal patronage from kingdoms far and beyond India. Depending on the design, it can sometimes take several weeks for a weaver family of four to weave a single piece of these splendid textiles. 

Telangana is one of three hubs in India, apart from Odisha (Sambalpuri Ikat) and Gujarat (Rajkot Patola Ikat), where this craft continues to thrive while staying true to the grand traditional practices. Ikat sarees are mostly woven using cotton and silk with the latter often referred to as ‘Ikkat Pattu Sarees’. 

Ikat sarees are pre-dominantly woven in bright and vibrant hues of red, indigo, blue and green apart from elegant black, grey and white. It is the impeccable interweaving of a set of very diverse threads to create a colorful, yet cohesive palette that adds to the prestige of these magical pieces of art.